Crochet Trebhum Monster Free Amigurumi Pattern From The Eternal Cylinder in Rainbow Stripes

Teal, coral, mustard and pink stripes wrap the whole crochet Trebhum monster, so it reads as a pop of colour on a streaming backdrop or gaming shelf. Birthday surprises for the gamer in the house grow bigger with a Trebhum amigurumi, the alien hero of The Eternal Cylinder.

Somebody left the crochet Trebhum monster sprawled across the coffee table again. Its trunk drags on the wood while the crochet Trebhum monster keeps a side eye on the room. Roommates who claim the sofa and never move will see themselves in it. Even its limbs refuse to stay tidy.

Crochet Trebhum Monster

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Every piece of this striped creature starts in a magic ring, and you work the long trunk straight into the body halfway up instead of sewing it on later. Two big eye sockets sit on the sides of the head, each holding a cream eye with an orange iris and a black pupil. Long bent legs curl forward from the lower body and end in plump stuffed feet. Fans of The Eternal Cylinder will recognize Trebhum right away, and my rainbow stripes give the crochet Trebhum monster a bright twist. Plan on a long project, since the body alone grows past a hundred stitches per round.

Why I love this one: the first time mine sprawled across the coffee table with its trunk flopped forward, it looked like it had just wandered in from the game and decided to stay.

Materials and Tools

Yarn in six colours: hot pink, turquoise, royal blue, cream, yellow and orange. I used a soft cotton blend and rotated the colours every round or two in a loose, unplanned order, which is what gives my Trebhum its candy stripes.
Cream yarn for the eyes. The original pattern calls for white, but cream sits more softly against the bright stripes.
Orange and yellow yarn or embroidery thread for the iris around each pupil. The original uses beige here.
Two black safety eyes or round black beads for the pupils.
2.0 mm crochet hook (listed as hook no. 2 in the original) for the trunk, body, sockets, feet and legs.
1.5 mm crochet hook for the eyes.
Plenty of polyester fiberfill. The body is large and takes far more stuffing than you'd expect.
Stitch markers, a tapestry needle and scissors.

Skill Level and Time

I'd call this an intermediate project. None of the stitches are hard, but the body runs past a hundred stitches per round, the trunk joins partway up the body, and the legs use half double and double crochet shaping. Mine took several days of steady work, so treat it as a project you return to rather than a weekend make.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

MR: magic ring
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
inc: increase (2 sc in the same stitch; called "add" in the original)
dec: decrease (called "sub" in the original)
BLO: back loop only
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
[#]: total stitches at the end of the round

Before You Start

The trunk, body, sockets, eyes and feet all work in a continuous spiral, so keep a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. On a body this size, losing count once can throw off every round after it.

For the stripes, change colour on the last yarn over of the final stitch in the round, and give the new colour a gentle tug after a few stitches to keep the jog small. You'll still see a slight step where the rounds meet, so line that seam up along the back of each piece.

Carry unused colours loosely up the inside instead of cutting them every time. With six colours on the go, this saves dozens of tails, and nobody sees the strands once the piece is stuffed.

The Pattern

Proboscis (Trunk)

Round 1: With your 2.0 mm hook and the tip colour (pink on mine), make a magic ring (MR) and work 6 single crochet (sc) into it. [6] Pull the ring tight, since this end is the very tip of the trunk.
Round 2: Work 6 increases (inc). [12] You now have a small flat circle.
Round 3: Work in the back loop only (BLO), 12 sc. [12] This turns the edge sharply so the trunk tip ends up flat rather than rounded.
Round 4 to Round 14: Work 12 sc in each round without changes. [12] The trunk is now a slim tube, and this is a good point to start rotating your stripe colours.
Round 15: (5 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [14] The trunk begins to widen very gradually from here.
Round 16 to Round 23: Work without changes. [14]
Round 24: (6 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [16]
Round 25 to Round 30: Work without changes. [16]
Round 31: (7 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [18]
Round 32 to Round 36: Work without changes. [18]
Round 37: (8 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [20]
Round 38 to Round 47: Work without changes. [20] Start stuffing the narrow end now, since it gets hard to reach once the trunk grows longer.
Round 48: (9 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [22]
Round 49 to Round 51: Work without changes. [22]
Round 52: (10 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [24]
Round 53 to Round 54: Work without changes. [24]
Round 55: (11 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [26]
Round 56 to Round 57: Work without changes. [26]
Round 58: (12 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [28]
Round 59 to Round 60: Work without changes. [28]
Round 61: (13 sc, 1 inc) repeat 2 times. [30]
Round 62 to Round 63: Work without changes, then fasten off. [30] Stuff the trunk firmly almost to the open end before setting it aside, because once it joins the body you can only reach it from inside.

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Head and Body

Round 1: With the 2.0 mm hook, make an MR and work 6 sc. [6] This becomes the top of the head, and on mine the stripes ripple out from here like a target.
Round 2: Work 6 inc. [12]
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [24]
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [30]
Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [36]
Round 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [42]
Round 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [48]
Round 9: (7 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [54]
Round 10: (8 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [60]
Round 11: (9 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [66]
Round 12: (10 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [72]
Round 13: (11 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [78]
Round 14: (12 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [84]
Round 15: (13 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [90]
Round 16: (14 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [96]
Round 17: (15 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. [102] The piece should look like a wide, shallow dome by now.
Round 18: Work without changes. [102]
Round 19: Work 47 sc, 8 inc, 47 sc. [110] These increases build a small bulge on the front of the face, directly above where the trunk will join.
Round 20: Work without changes. [110]
Round 21: Work 47 sc, 8 decreases (dec), 47 sc. [102] The bulge closes back in, leaving a soft brow over the trunk.
Round 22 to Round 29: Work without changes. [102] The sides drop straight down here, and the head starts to look properly round.
Round 30: Work 47 sc, attach the trunk and work 10 sc across it, then continue with 45 sc. Line the trunk up under the bulge from Round 19 so it hangs from the centre of the face.
Round 31: Work one large round without changes. [116] The trunk is now part of the body, and the extra stitches give the lower face room to hold it.
Round 32 to Round 38: Work without changes. [116]
Round 39: (17 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times, then 1 dec. The body starts closing in toward the base from here.
Round 40: Work 1 dec, (16 sc, 1 dec) repeat 5 times, 15 sc, 1 dec.
Round 41: (15 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 42: (14 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 43: (13 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 44: (12 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 45: (11 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 46: (10 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 47: (9 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 48: (8 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 49: (7 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. Stuff the body firmly now, and push extra fiberfill into the base of the trunk so the join doesn't sag.
Round 50: (6 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 51: (5 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 52: (4 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 53: (3 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 54: (2 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. Top up the stuffing one last time while the hole is still big enough for your fingers.
Round 55: (1 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times.
Round 56: Work 6 dec, then pull all the loops together to close. Weave the tail into the body so the base sits flat on a table.

Eye Sockets (make 2)

Round 1: With the 2.0 mm hook, make an MR and work 6 sc. On mine the sockets are striped like the body, with orange and yellow showing at the outer rim.
Round 2: Work 6 inc.
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 9: Work without changes. [48] The flat circle now turns up at the edge into a shallow dish.
Round 10: (6 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The rim curls inward slightly, which is what holds the eye snugly in place.

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Eyes (make 2)

Round 1: With cream yarn and the 1.5 mm hook, make an MR and work 6 sc. The smaller hook keeps the eye tight and flat so it reads as a clean disc.
Round 2: Work 6 inc.
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times.
Round 8: Work without changes, then fasten off. [36] Lay the eye inside a socket to check the fit, with a ring of socket colour showing all around.
Embroider a small iris around the centre of each eye. I used orange and yellow so it picks up the stripes, though the original uses beige.
Sew a black pupil into the centre of the iris, using a bead or a safety eye. On mine the pupil fills most of the iris, leaving just a thin coloured ring.
Sew each finished eye into the centre of its socket. Stitch around the edge of the cream disc so the socket rim frames it evenly.

Feet (make 2)

Finger 1 and Finger 2, Round 1: With the 2.0 mm hook, make an MR and work 6 sc. You'll make two of these small fingers for each foot.
Finger 1 and Finger 2, Round 2: Work 6 inc. [12] The source leaves this round out, and this matches Round 2 of Finger 3 so you reach the 12 stitches the next rounds need.
Finger 1 and Finger 2, Round 3 to Round 4: Work without changes. [12]
Finger 1 and Finger 2, Round 5: (4 sc, 1 dec) repeat 2 times.
Finger 1 and Finger 2, Round 6 to Round 7: Work without changes. [10]
Stuff Finger 1 and Finger 2 and set them aside. Fasten off each one, but keep them handy for joining.
Finger 3, Round 1: Make an MR and work 6 sc. This is the big toe, and it ends up one round longer than the other two.
Finger 3, Round 2: Work 6 inc.
Finger 3, Round 3 to Round 4: Work 12 sc in each round. [12]
Finger 3, Round 5: (4 sc, 1 dec) repeat 2 times.
Finger 3, Round 6 to Round 8: Work without changes. [10]
Stuff Finger 3, and don't cut the yarn.
Round 9 (joining): Work 5 sc across Finger 1, 5 sc across Finger 2, 10 sc all the way around Finger 3, then continue back around the other sides of Finger 2 and Finger 1. [30] Hold all three fingers side by side with Finger 3 at one end before you start, so the big toe sits on the outer edge of the joined foot.
Round 10 to Round 11: Work without changes. [30]
Round 12: (13 sc, 1 dec) repeat 2 times. [28]
Round 13: Work without changes. [28]
Round 14: (12 sc, 1 dec) repeat 2 times. [26]
Round 15: Work without changes. [26]
Round 16: (11 sc, 1 dec) repeat 2 times. [24]
Round 17: (10 sc, 1 dec) repeat 2 times. [22]
Round 18: (9 sc, 1 dec) repeat 2 times. [20]
Round 19 to Round 21: Work without changes. [20] The foot now narrows into an ankle.
Round 22: (8 sc, 1 dec) repeat 2 times. [18]
Round 23: Work without changes. [18]
Stuff the foot firmly. A well filled foot keeps the toes round and helps Trebhum sit steady on a flat surface.
Round 24: Work 9 dec, then pull the loops tight to close. Repeat everything above for the second foot. On my finished monster the toes point down toward the table, so from above the feet look like plump rounded knobs.

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Upper Legs (make 2)

First leg, Round 1: With the 2.0 mm hook, ch 22, join into a circle with a sl st, then work 22 sc. [22] Check that the chain isn't twisted before you join, or the whole leg will spiral.
First leg, Round 2 to Round 21: Work in the round without changes. [22] You should have a long, even tube by now.
First leg, Round 22: Work 7 sc, 8 half double crochet (hdc), 7 sc. [22] The taller stitches start a bend in the leg.
First leg, Round 23 to Round 25: Work 7 sc, 1 hdc, 6 double crochet (dc), 1 hdc, 7 sc. [22] This panel of taller stitches pushes the leg into the curve you can see in my photo, like a bent knee.
First leg, Round 26 to Round 40: Work without changes. [22]
First leg, Round 41: Work 4 sc, move your stitch marker to mark the new start of round, then work 11 hdc and 12 sc. This shifts the shaping to the side of the leg that will sit against the body.
First leg, Round 42 to Round 43: Work 1 hdc, 9 dc, 1 hdc, 12 sc.
First leg, Round 44: Work 1 hdc, 9 dc, 1 hdc, then a sl st.
First leg, Round 45: Turn your work. Work a sl st, 1 hdc, 9 dc, 1 hdc, sl st, then fasten off. This builds the angled top of the leg that sits flush against the body.
Second leg: Work identically to the first leg up to Round 41. The second leg mirrors the first from here, so the two hips face opposite ways.
Second leg, Round 42: Work 4 sc, move your stitch marker to mark the new start of round, then work 12 sc and 11 hdc.
Second leg, Round 43 to Round 44: Work 12 sc, 1 hdc, 9 dc, 1 hdc.
Second leg, Round 45: Work 1 sc, then turn your work. Work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 9 dc, 1 hdc, sl st, then fasten off. Hold both legs side by side to check that the angled tops mirror each other before sewing.

Assembly

Sew the feet to the bottom of the legs, at the chain end, with the big toe facing inward. Pin both feet first and look at them side by side so the big toes mirror each other.
Lightly stuff the upper legs. Keep the stuffing soft so the legs keep their bend and lie on the table the way mine do.
Sew the legs onto the main body. On mine they attach low on each side of the body, a little behind the eyes, so they arch outward and curl forward on either side of the trunk.
Sew the eye sockets onto the sides of the head. On my Trebhum they sit at the widest part of the head, just above the level of the trunk, with each eye facing out and slightly forward.

Tips and Troubleshooting

Count the body every few rounds once you pass Round 17. At over a hundred stitches, a single missed increase is easy to miss until the shaping looks off.
If the trunk droops at the join, the base of the trunk needs more stuffing. Push fiberfill in from inside the body before you close it.
Keep your stripe rotation random rather than strictly repeating. A fixed sequence makes the jogs line up in one obvious diagonal, while a loose rotation hides them.
Pin the legs and eye sockets in place and look at Trebhum from the front, side and above before sewing. Their placement decides whether the face looks right.
If the legs won't hold their curve, use less stuffing in the upper legs. Overfilling straightens out the bend from the taller stitches.

Customization Ideas

Work Trebhum in a single colour, or the game's own colours, if rainbow stripes aren't your thing.
Use a chunky yarn and a bigger hook to make a giant floor cushion version.
Swap the cream eyes for a pale colour and stitch on eyelids for a sleepier look.
Stripe only the trunk and legs, and keep the body in one solid colour.
Make the trunk shorter by leaving out some of the plain rounds between the increases, for a compact shelf version.

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FAQ

What is a Trebhum? Trebhum is the small creature you guide through the game The Eternal Cylinder. It's known for its trunk, big side eyes and long legs, which is exactly what this pattern recreates.

How big does the finished monster turn out? Mine came out large, roughly melon sized in the body, with the trunk and legs stretching well past it. The size will change with your yarn and tension, so treat that as a rough guide.

Can I use self striping yarn instead of changing colours? Yes. A self striping yarn with short colour runs gives a similar look and saves you all the colour changes, though the stripes will be less random than mine.

Why does the body need so much stuffing? The body is a large sphere that supports the trunk and the legs. If it's soft, the trunk pulls the face forward and Trebhum tips over, so fill it until it holds a round shape when you press it.

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