Crochet Plush Bear Keychain Amigurumi Pattern Free

Split the pair between two key rings so each partner carries one crochet plush bear keychain, pink on one set of keys and blue on the other. Valentine's Day swaps and Christmas stocking fillers both suit a mini teddy bear keychain hugging a cream heart across its belly.

Faceless and plain, the crochet plush bear keychain leans entirely on the heart held across its front. Pink and blue both work. Sew the heart on last. Small enough for a bag clip or a zip, the crochet plush bear keychain uses scrap cotton and finishes without shaping tricks or stitched features.

Crochet Plush Bear Keychain

Each bear holds a cream heart across its chest, large enough to cover most of the body. Bodies come in solid pink or solid blue, with small round ears sitting flat on the head and stubby limbs stretched out to the sides. No face is stitched on at all, so the heart carries the whole design. Chain straps run from the head for hanging. Parts break into body, ears, arms, legs, heart, and the strap. Working in the round keeps it simple, and the heart attaches last across the front. Small pieces mean fiddly sewing, but nothing in the build asks for advanced skills.

Materials and Tools

• Plush or chenille yarn in brown and white or cream
• Crochet hook sized for your yarn, typically 3.5 mm to 4.5 mm
• Safety eyes
• Black embroidery thread for the nose
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Keychain ring
• Tapestry needle

The pattern does not give a finished size. On a 4.0 mm hook with standard chenille weight, expect the head to come out approximately 5 to 7 cm across. Expect roughly 1 to 1.5 hours total.

Abbreviations

• sc: single crochet
• inc: increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• dec: decrease (invisible decrease recommended)

Pieces List

• Head and body (one continuous piece): 1
• Muzzle: 1
• Ears: 2

The Pattern

Head and Body

Work in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker. Plush yarn hides stitch tops, so feel for placement with your hook tip rather than looking for the V.

• Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6). Checkpoint: a tight closed circle. Pull the ring fully shut.
• Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
• Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (18)
• Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (24). Checkpoint: a flat disc about the size of a large coin, lying completely flat. With plush yarn it will look fuzzy at the edges — run your finger around the perimeter to feel the shape rather than judge by sight.
• Round 5: Sc in each stitch around (24)
• Round 6: Sc in each stitch around (24)

• Round 7: Sc in each stitch around (24)
• Round 8: Sc in each stitch around (24). Checkpoint: a clear rounded dome at this stage, sides rising evenly into a sphere. Insert safety eyes now, between rounds 6 and 7, about 4 to 5 stitches apart. Count back two rounds from your current position to find round 6 and insert there. Snap the backs on firmly before continuing. This must happen before the decreases close the piece.
• Round 9: (2 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (18). Checkpoint: the sphere is narrowing clearly. Start stuffing here while the opening is still wide enough to shape with your hand.
• Stuff the head firmly with fiberfill.
• Round 10: (1 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (12)
• Round 11: 6 dec (6). Checkpoint: a small puckered hole remaining, head fully rounded and firm.
• Fasten off and weave in ends.

For children under three: skip the safety eyes and embroider both eyes with black yarn in the same position between rounds 6 and 7, hiding tails inside before closing.

If magic rings and invisible decreases sound like another language, start with the video tutorial below, it makes everything click!

Muzzle

• Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12). Checkpoint: a small flat disc, about the size of a shirt button. Should lie completely flat.
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
• Embroider a small V shape or triangle for the nose using black embroidery thread, centred on the disc.

Ears — Make 2

• Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6). Checkpoint: a small tight circle, no gap at the centre.
• Round 2: Sc in each stitch around (6). Checkpoint: a short open tube, barely taller than its width.
• Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Assembly

1. Sew the muzzle to the centre of the face slightly below the eyes, stitching evenly around the edge. Pin it first and check from the front. Lightly stuff the muzzle before closing the seam if you want a more raised look.
2. Pin both ears to the top of the head between rounds 3 and 5, angled slightly outward. Check symmetry from the front before sewing either one.
3. Attach the keychain ring at the very top centre of the head, threading yarn through multiple stitches to distribute the load. Pull firmly and check that the bear hangs straight before knotting off.

Stuffing Guide

Start adding fiberfill at round 9, when the opening is still wide enough to work your hand inside. Add small amounts at a time and press each pinch outward toward the sides before adding more. The upper head section needs to feel firmly rounded. Avoid packing stuffing near the final two rounds or the stitches spread and the closing rows look ragged. With plush yarn this shows as a slightly distorted texture rather than a visible gap, but it still affects the shape. The muzzle gets light stuffing at most — just enough to lift it off the face surface slightly.

Toy Safety

Safety eyes are not suitable for children under three. Use the embroidered swap described in the head section. Also check that the keychain ring is securely attached before the bear goes into daily use. Pass the yarn through the crown stitches at least three times and test with a firm tug.

FAQ

• I can't see my stitches in the plush yarn. This is normal. Work slowly and use your hook tip to feel under the yarn pile for the stitch loop, rather than trying to see it. Every maker who starts on chenille goes through this. After one piece it becomes instinctive.
• Can I use regular acrylic instead of plush yarn? Yes. The construction stays identical. The bear will look more structured and less soft, and the stitches will be easier to see and count. A tighter, smoother result with the same hook size.
• The muzzle looks off-centre after sewing. Unpick the side that has drifted and resew. Before you do, mark the centre bottom of the head with a pin and the centre of the muzzle with a small piece of contrasting yarn, and align those two points before taking your first stitch. One reference point on each piece is all it takes.