Easy Crochet Fox Plushie Pattern Free For Beginners

Rust orange chenille makes the easy crochet fox plushie feel velvety in small hands, and a cream bib runs from chin to belly under its black nose. Woodland nurseries and autumn bookshelves suit the fox amigurumi plushie, whose black paws and feet ground the bright orange coat.

Black tipped ears and a wide cheeky muzzle give this crochet fox plushie the look of something that has just got away with stealing your lunch. It sits with paws out like it wants handing over. The eyes are set low and close, which reads as scheming rather than sweet.

Crochet Fox Plushie

Chenille yarn gives this fox a bumpy, velvety surface where every stitch reads as its own little pom. Ears stand upright with cream fronts and black tips, and the head sits wide over a short body. Cream runs across the muzzle, down the chest, and up under the chin, with a black nose and a stitched line below it. Paws and feet finish in black. Head, body, ears, arms, and legs work separately, and the colour changes happen inside the pieces rather than at the seams. Chenille hides uneven tension well, so the stitching forgives mistakes. Counting stitches in it is the real challenge here.

Pieces List

• Legs: 2, joined to start the body
• Body: 1, worked directly off the legs
• Arms: 2
• Head: 1
• Ears: 2
• Tail: 1

Materials and Tools

• Orange yarn for the main body, head, arms and ears
• Black yarn for the paws
• White yarn for the muzzle panel and tail tip
• Polyester stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Scissors

No yarn weight or hook size is given. A DK or worsted weight with a 3 mm to 3.5 mm hook is a comfortable starting point and should give a fox around 15 to 18 cm tall. Estimate only.

Beginner Technique Notes

• Magic ring: every piece in this pattern starts with a magic ring. Wrap the yarn loosely around two fingers to form a loop, insert your hook, pull up a working loop and chain 1 to anchor. Work your single crochets into the ring, then pull the tail to close the centre hole. Using a magic ring instead of a starting chain keeps the centre tight with no visible hole.
• Continuous rounds: work in a continuous spiral without joining each round with a slip stitch. Your stitch marker is essential here — clip it into the first stitch of each new round and move it up as you go. Without it you will lose count quickly.
• Marking the round: if you have no commercial stitch markers, a short piece of scrap yarn looped through the stitch works just as well. Move it up at the start of each round, not at the end.
• Colour changes: the colour changes in this pattern all happen at the start of a round or between two rounds, which is the cleanest way to switch. On the last stitch before the change, draw the new colour through to complete the stitch rather than finishing with the old yarn. The join sits tidier and more evenly than changing mid-round.
• Invisible decrease: insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch, then into the front loop of the stitch after that. Yarn over, pull through both front loops, then yarn over and pull through the two remaining loops. This sits flatter than a standard decrease and is worth learning for any piece where the outside will show.

Safety Eye Timing

The pattern includes no eyes. If you want to add safety eyes, insert them during Rounds 6 to 8 of the head while the opening is still wide and you can reach inside to snap on the washers. Position them on the front face, spaced about 6 to 8 stitches apart, and set them just below the widest point of the head sphere.
For a child under three, embroider the eyes after the head is completely closed and stuffed. Two small straight stitches of black yarn on each side look clean and stay secure.

The Pattern

Leg 1

• Round 1: With black yarn, magic ring with 6 single crochet. Checkpoint: a tight small circle, the paw base. (6)
• Round 2: 6 increases. Checkpoint: a flat black disc, like a small button. (12)
• Change to orange yarn.
• Round 3: 12 single crochet. Checkpoint: the leg is now a short tube with a clear colour change at the top. (12)
• Slip stitch, chain 1 and cut the yarn. Set aside.

Leg 2

• Rounds 1 to 3: Repeat the steps for Leg 1.
• Do not cut the yarn after finishing Leg 2.

Body (Joined from Legs)

• Rounds 4 to 5: Single crochet all around. Checkpoint: both legs should now hang from one connected round.
• Round 6: 11 single crochet, 5 single crochet with white yarn, 9 single crochet. Checkpoint: a white patch should be visible at the front of the body. (25)
• Rounds 7 to 10: 7 single crochet, 7 single crochet with white yarn, 8 single crochet.
• Round 11: 2 decreases, 18 single crochet, 2 decreases, 3 single crochet.
• Slip stitch, chain 1 and cut the yarn.

If shaping and stuffing feel intimidating, the video tutorial below shows you exactly how it comes together, one round at a time!

 

Arms (Make 2)

• Round 1: With black yarn, magic ring with 6 single crochet. (6)
• Round 2: Change to orange yarn. Single crochet in all stitches. Checkpoint: a tiny two-round tube, smaller than the legs. (6)
• Slip stitch, chain 1 and cut the yarn.

Head

• Round 1: With orange yarn, magic ring with 6 single crochet. (6)
• Round 2: 6 increases. (12)
• Round 3: (1 single crochet, 1 increase) repeat 6 times. (18)
• Round 4: (2 single crochet, 1 increase) repeat 6 times. (24)
• Round 5: (3 single crochet, 1 increase) repeat 6 times. Checkpoint: a flat or very slightly cupped circle, still lying mostly flat at this stage. (30)
• Rounds 6 to 9: Single crochet in all stitches, for 4 rounds. Checkpoint: the head should look like a deep bowl or dome by Round 8. This is when to insert safety eyes if using them. (30)
• Round 10: Change to white yarn. Single crochet in all stitches. Checkpoint: a white band runs around the lower half of the head, forming the muzzle base. (30)
• Round 11: (3 single crochet, 1 decrease) repeat 6 times. (24)
• Round 12: (2 single crochet, 1 decrease) repeat 6 times. (18)
• Fill the head with polyester stuffing.
• Round 13: (1 single crochet, 1 decrease) repeat 6 times. (12)
• Round 14: 6 decreases. Checkpoint: the head should be a firm, round ball. Close the remaining hole by weaving the tail through the front loops and pulling tight. (6)
• Slip stitch, chain 1 and cut the yarn.

Ears (Make 2)

• Round 1: With orange yarn, magic ring with 6 single crochet. (6)
• Round 2: 6 increases. (12)
• Round 3: 12 single crochet. Checkpoint: the ear is an open flat disc with no decreasing.
• Slip stitch, chain 1 and cut the yarn.

Tail

• Round 1: With white yarn, magic ring with 6 single crochet. (6)
• Round 2: 6 increases. (12)
• Change to orange yarn.
• Rounds 3 to 6: 12 single crochet in each round. Checkpoint: a short orange tube with a white tip. (12)
• Round 7: (1 single crochet, 1 decrease) repeat 4 times. (8)
• Rounds 8 to 9: 8 single crochet in each round. Checkpoint: the tail should taper toward the orange end. (8)
• Slip stitch, chain 1 and cut the yarn.

Assembly

• Sew the head to the body.
• Sew the arms to the body.
• Sew the ears to the head.
• Sew on the facial details, nose and tail.

Assembly Guide

1. Sew the head to the top of the body, aligned so the white muzzle panel faces the same direction as the white belly panel.
2. Pin the arms to the sides of the body, a round or two below the neck. Sew across the flat open end of each arm.
3. Pin the ears on top of the head, about two rounds down from the crown. Fold each disc slightly before sewing so the ear cups forward rather than lying flat.
4. Sew the tail to the back of the body, low on the body near the base.
5. Embroider the nose on the white muzzle section and add the eyes last.

Pin everything before sewing. Look at the fox from the front each time before committing a stitch.
 

Stuffing Guide

• The head wants firm stuffing so it stays round and holds the ears and embroidery without denting. The body takes medium stuffing; pack it before Round 11 closes things down. Arms stay unstuffed — two rounds of flat tube is too small to fill and still sew flat.
• Overstuffing shows at the colour change rows on the body, where the white section pulls tight and gaps appear between the orange and white stitches.

FAQ

• What is a magic ring and why does every piece use one? The magic ring lets you start a round of crochet with an adjustable loop that pulls tight with no hole at the centre. Every piece in this pattern starts this way. The beginner notes above have the full method.
• My colour change has a jog or a visible line. Is that normal? Yes, a slight colour jog at the change is normal in continuous rounds. Position it at the back of the piece where it will face away from view.
• Why do my leg counts not match the body instructions? The join count of 25 in the pattern doesn't add up from two legs of 12. Count your actual stitches and work from that number through the body.
• Can I use safety eyes? Yes. Insert them during Rounds 6 to 8 of the head, before the head closes. For children under three, embroider instead.
• My ears look flat and floppy. How do I fix them? Fold the outer edges of each disc in slightly and hold them together with a stitch before sewing the ear to the head. This cups the ear forward and gives it a natural angle.