Crochet Pigeon Keychain Free Pattern Mini Amigurumi

Hanging from a rear view mirror, the crochet pigeon keychain spreads ridged white wings almost as wide as an open palm. Bird watchers will smile at the mini amigurumi pigeon, whose yellow beak, yellow feet and black brows give it a cross little stare.

Spread wings and a fanned tail turn this crochet pigeon keychain into a spring desk gift, right when the birds come back and everyone notices them again. Hook a batch for Easter baskets that need something other than rabbits. Clip one to a bag at the start of migration season. White yarn also reads as a dove for wedding favours in June.

Crochet Pigeon Keychain

Wings spread wide on both sides, worked flat and ridged, so the whole bird lies open across your palm instead of sitting upright. The body is white throughout, with a yellow beak, black stitched brows above the eyes, two yellow feet at the front, and a fanned tail flaring out below. Head and body come as one shaped piece, then the wings and tail attach at the sides and back, with a loop at the top for the ring. Working the wings flat keeps the shaping simple. The trickiest part is getting both wings pitched at the same angle so the bird looks balanced hanging from a bag.

Materials and Tools

• Main yarn in your chosen body colour. Grey, blue-grey or iridescent yarn all read as pigeon. Any smooth yarn at the weight your hook is suited for
• Yellow yarn for the beak and leg embroidery
• Black yarn for the eye embroidery
• Crochet hook suitable for your yarn weight. A 2.5 mm to 3.5 mm hook with a DK or lightweight yarn gives a finished pigeon small enough for a keychain without the stitches gaping
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• A keychain ring, lobster clasp or short pendant cord for the hanging loop

Approximate finished size is around 3 to 4 inches tall depending on yarn weight and hook size. Time is approximately one to two hours from start to finish. Both figures are estimates from experience with similar small amigurumi, not measurements from the pattern itself.

Abbreviations Used

• sc: single crochet
• inc: increase, two sc into one stitch
• dec: decrease, two stitches worked together into one
• BLO: back loop only
• Stitch counts in brackets at the end of each round

Pieces List

• Head and body: 1 piece, worked together in a continuous spiral
• Wings: 2 pieces, worked flat with step-chain feather layers
• Tail: 1 piece, worked flat with step-chain feather layers

Four pieces total. The face is embroidered directly onto the finished body during assembly.

The Pattern

The head and body are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or chain at the end of each round. Keep a stitch marker in the first stitch of every new round.

Head and Body

• Round 1: magic ring with 6 sc [6]
• Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around [12]
• Round 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, repeat around [18]. Checkpoint: a shallow open disc with curved sides beginning to rise. This is the top of the head
• Round 4: sc in each stitch around [18]
• Round 5: sc in each stitch around [18]
• Round 6: sc in each stitch around [18]
• Round 7: sc in each stitch around [18]. Checkpoint: a round full ball. This is the complete head section and it should sit comfortably in your palm with a wide open base. The neck decrease begins next
• Round 8: 1 sc, 1 dec, repeat around [12]. If the round count is off here, the neck pinch will land in the wrong place and the bird will look like it has a very long or very short head. Count before starting this round
• Round 9: 1 sc, 1 inc, repeat around [18]
• Round 10: 2 sc, 1 inc, repeat around [24]. Checkpoint: the body is now visibly wider than the neck above it and the pigeon silhouette is clear, a round head sitting on a wider puffed chest
• Round 11: sc in each stitch around [24]
• Round 12: sc in each stitch around [24]
• Round 13: sc in each stitch around [24]

• Round 14: sc in each stitch around [24]
• Round 15: sc in each stitch around [24]. Checkpoint: the body section is now a full round ball below the neck. Begin stuffing firmly at this point, working stuffing in through the opening in small pieces before the next round narrows the gap
• Begin stuffing the head and body firmly
• Round 16: 2 sc, 1 dec, repeat around [18]
• Round 17: 1 sc, 1 dec, repeat around [12]
• Final round: dec in every stitch around [6]. If you cannot close fully after this round, work one additional dec round before fastening off
• Slip stitch and fasten off. Pull the tail through to the inside and close the opening

If rounds and stitch counts look confusing right now, don't stress! The video tutorial below walks you through this plushie step by step.

 

Wings, Make Two

• Chain 5
• Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 4 sc across [4]
• Chain 1 and turn
• Work sc across the row in back loops only [4]. Checkpoint: a small flat rectangle two rows tall. This is the base of the wing before the feather layers begin
• Chain 3 and turn to begin the first feather layer extension
• Work sc back across the chain stitches and then across the existing row [7]. If the chain stitches are hard to work into, loosen your grip on the chain before turning
• Continue repeating this step-up pattern: chain 3 at the end of each row, turn, and work sc back across the new chain and the existing row
• Each new section grows the wing slightly longer. Continue until the wing reaches approximately 14 stitches across. 
• Chain 4 for the final feather section
• Work sc back across [the full current width plus 4]. Checkpoint: the finished wing reads as a stepped shape with visible feather layers at the outer edge, wider at the bottom than at the top
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Tail

• Chain 9
• Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 8 sc across [8]
• Chain 1 and turn
• Work sc across using back loops only [8]
• Add chain 3 sections at the end of rows to gradually extend the tail shape, working sc back across each chain and the existing row as with the wings
• Continue the step-up feather pattern until the tail reaches a layered shape that suits the body size. Checkpoint: the tail reads as a fan with stepped feather edges, wider at the outer end than at the attachment base
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Assembly

Pin everything before sewing. The wing angle makes a significant difference to whether the bird reads as alert or relaxed.

1. Sew one wing to each side of the body, positioned slightly above the centre of the body section with the feather edges pointing upward. The wings sit on the widest part of the chest, not at the very top near the neck.
2. Sew the tail to the back of the body about four rows above the bottom. The tail should point outward and slightly downward from the base of the body.
3. Using yellow yarn, embroider a small triangular beak on the front of the head at the base of the head section just above the neck. Two or three satin stitches in a triangle shape is enough.
4. Embroider two small eyes using black yarn, one on each side of the head above the beak. A single satin stitch or a French knot reads clearly at this scale.
5. Using yellow yarn, embroider two small V-shaped legs near the bottom of the body below the wing attachment points.
6. Attach your hanging loop, keychain ring or pendant cord to the top of the head with a few secure stitches through the closing seam.

Stuffing Guide

• Head and body: firm, as the pattern instructs. At keychain size a soft body loses its shape the first time it gets pressed against something in a bag. Overstuffing shows as stitch gaps across the body, especially around rounds 11 to 14 where the body is widest. Fill in small amounts and check the surface.
• Wings: no stuffing. They are flat layered pieces.
• Tail: no stuffing. Flat, same as the wings.

FAQ

• What yarn weight works best for a keychain? A fine or DK weight gives the right size. Sport or fingering weight on a 2.5 mm hook comes out very small and dense, which is perfect if you want it to stay neat on a keyring. Worsted is fine but the finished bird will be closer to a bag charm than a true keychain.
• My neck pinch is not visible after round 8. The decrease round reduces from 18 to 12 stitches, which should pull the fabric in noticeably. If the change is subtle, check that round 8 used proper decreases rather than skipped stitches, and that the stuffing was not pushed into the neck area when you filled the head.
• The wings keep curling inward after sewing. This is the back-loop-only rows causing a natural curl toward the front-loop side. Pin the wings flat against the body when sewing and use a few extra stitches at the top and bottom of each wing to hold them open. Light blocking with a damp cloth before attaching also helps.