Buttercup Powerpuff Girl Amigurumi Crochet Pattern Free

Pair the crochet Buttercup Powerpuff Girl with her sisters on a shelf, where her flicked black hair and lime green dress stand apart from pink and blue. Cream legs and white ankle cuffs finish the Buttercup amigurumi doll, a birthday gift any fan of the 90s cartoon will love.

Star pupils and green rings make the eyes on this crochet Buttercup Powerpuff Girl the whole project. Big head, small body, green dress with one black stripe. Black shoes. Six pieces, sewn together. The eye layers take the longest. Everything else works up fast once you have the head done.

Crochet Buttercup Powerpuff Girl

Eyes take up nearly half the face, two huge circles ringed in green with black centres and a white star in each. Black hair caps the head and flicks out at the sides. Below that sits a green dress with a black stripe across the middle, cream arms and legs, and black shoes with white cuffs at the ankles. The head is worked large against a small body, which is what gives this crochet Buttercup Powerpuff Girl its cartoon proportions. Head, body, arms, legs, hair, and eye pieces all work separately. The eyes carry the most work, layered in three colours and sewn flat onto the face.

Technique Notes for Beginners

Before starting, read through these four techniques. They appear throughout every piece.

• Magic ring: Make a loop with the tail end of your yarn, insert the hook, pull up a loop, chain 1 (or as many as the pattern says), then work your stitches into the centre of the loop. Pull the tail end to close the hole at the centre. This gives a tight, gap-free start and is used in almost every piece here.
• Continuous rounds vs joined rounds: The legs in this pattern use joined rounds (slip stitch at the end of each round, chain 1 to start the next). The head and body use continuous rounds with no join. In continuous rounds, your rounds spiral upward. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of the round and move it up each time so you always know where the round ends.
• Increase: Work 2 sc into the same stitch. This adds one stitch to your count.
• Invisible decrease: Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the stitch after it, yarn over and pull through both front loops, yarn over and pull through the two loops on your hook. This gives a neater, flatter decrease than the standard method and is especially important on the large head where any bumpy decreases show clearly.

Pieces List

• Legs: 2
• Body: 1 (with attached skirt strip)
• Head: 1
• Hair: 1 (cap with bangs and back panels)
• Arms: 2
• Eyes: 2 (crocheted separately)

Materials

• Weight 3 yarn in green
• Weight 3 yarn in black
• Weight 3 yarn in white
• Weight 3 yarn in tan
• 3.25 mm crochet hook
• Polyester stuffing
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• sc: single crochet
• inc: increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• dec: decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
• sl st: slip stitch
• ch: chain

The Pattern

Legs (Make 2)

• Round 1: With black yarn, make a magic ring, chain 2, work 6 sc into the ring, sl st to join, chain 1. [6]
• Round 2: 1 sc, 1 inc repeat 3 times, sl st to join, chain 1. [9]
• Round 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, sl st to join, chain 1. [12] Checkpoint: a small flat oval, widest in the middle. This is the shoe sole.
• Round 4: 2 sc in black, switch to white for 3 sc, switch to black for 7 sc, sl st to join, chain 1. [12]
• Round 5: 2 sc in black, switch to white for 4 sc, switch to black for 6 sc, sl st to join, chain 1. [12] Checkpoint: the white section sits across one side like a shoe strap across the top of a Mary Jane. The colour change should land in the same spot both rounds.
• Round 6: Work 12 sc in white. [12]
• Round 7: Work 12 sc. [12]
• Round 8: Work 12 sc. [12]
• Round 9: Work 12 sc. [12]
• Round 10: Work 12 sc. [12]
• Round 11: Work 12 sc. [12]
• Round 12: Work 12 sc and fasten off. [12] Checkpoint: a straight tube above the shoe section, long enough to look like a leg when the body sits on top.
• Stuff both legs.
• Sew a black line across round 5 to create the shoe strap detail.

Body

• Attach yarn to the first leg and work 8 sc.
• Join the second leg and work 12 sc around it.
• Work 4 sc on the first leg to complete the connector round. [24] sl st to join, chain 1.
• Chain 25, turn and work 24 sc across to form the skirt strip.
• Attach the skirt strip to the body using sl sts around the connector round. Checkpoint: the skirt strip forms a ruffle around the waist join. If it bunches unevenly, ease it as you slip stitch.
• Round 2: Work 24 sc in green. [24]
• Round 3: Work 24 sc. [24]
• Round 4: Work 24 sc. [24]
• Round 5: Work 24 sc in black. [24]
• Round 6: Work 24 sc in black. [24]
• Round 7: Work 24 sc in green. [24]
• Round 8: Work 24 sc. [24] Checkpoint: the body is a striped cylinder at this point. Green at the top and bottom with two black rounds in the middle.
• Round 9: 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec repeat the pattern to total 18 stitches. [18]
• Round 10: 1 sc, 1 dec repeat 6 times. [12]
• Stuff the body firmly.
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

If reading patterns isn't your thing yet, no stress! The video tutorial below covers this whole plushie from the first round to the finishing touches.

 

Head

• Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. [6]
• Round 2: Work 1 inc in each stitch. [12]
• Round 3: 1 sc, 1 inc repeat 6 times. [18]
• Round 4: 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc repeat 5 times, 1 sc. [24]
• Round 5: 3 sc, 1 inc repeat 6 times. [30]
• Round 6: 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc repeat 5 times, 2 sc. [36] Checkpoint: still flat and disc shaped. No doming yet.
• Round 7: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [36]
• Round 8: 5 sc, 1 inc repeat 6 times. [42]
• Round 9: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [42]
• Round 10: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [42]
• Round 11: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [42] Checkpoint: the sides curve up into a shallow dome. The head should look like a wide bowl from the side.
• Round 12: 3 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc repeat 5 times, 3 sc. [48]
• Round 13: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [48].

• Round 14: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [48]
• Round 15: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [48]
• Round 16: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [48] Checkpoint: the widest point. The head now looks like a full sphere with an opening at the bottom. This is the correct Powerpuff head shape.
• Round 17: 3 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec repeat 5 times, 3 sc. [42]
• Round 18: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [42]
• Round 19: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [42]
• Round 20: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [42]
• Round 21: 5 sc, 1 dec repeat 6 times. [36]
• Round 22: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [36]
• Begin stuffing now while the opening is still wide.
• Round 23: 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec repeat 5 times, 2 sc. [30]
• Round 24: 3 sc, 1 dec repeat 6 times. [24]
• Round 25: 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec repeat 5 times, 1 sc. [18]
• Round 26: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [18]
• Round 27: 1 sc, 1 dec repeat 6 times. [12]
• Round 28: Work 6 dec. [6]
• Close the opening and sew the head to the body.

Hair

• Work shaping rounds to form the base cap using chains and sl sts.
• Place a stitch marker at stitch 9 of round 4 to mark the split point for the bangs.
• Continue rows of sc and sl sts to form the bangs panel at the front and the back panel.
• Sew the hair cap to the head, leaving the side panels free to flip outward. Checkpoint: the bangs should sit across the forehead as a straight fringe. If they pull upward, sew one anchor stitch on each side of the fringe to hold it flat.

Arms (Make 2)

• Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. [6]
• Round 2: 1 sc, 1 inc repeat 3 times. [9]
• Round 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc. [12] Checkpoint: a small rounded hand shape, already wider than it is tall.
• Round 4: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [12]
• Round 5: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [12]
• Round 6: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [12]
• Round 7: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [12]
• Round 8: 1 sc, 1 dec repeat 4 times. [8] Checkpoint: the arm narrows at the wrist above the wider hand end.
• Round 9: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [8]
• Round 10: Work 1 sc in each stitch. [8]
• Stuff lightly.
• Fold flat and single crochet across the top to close.
• Sew to the body.

Eyes (Make 2, Mirrored)

• Crochet the right eye using white, black, and green shaping as the character design requires.
• Crochet the left eye as a mirrored version of the right.
• Sew both eyes onto the face. Checkpoint: the eyes should sit in the lower half of the face, large and close together. Pin them before sewing; Powerpuff proportions are specific and placement makes or breaks the likeness.
• Embroider a small U shaped mouth below the eyes.
• Secure all ends neatly inside the head.

Eyes and Toy Safety

• This pattern uses crocheted eyes rather than safety eyes, which makes it safer for younger children. There are no small parts to lock in. Check that all embroidery is knotted firmly on the inside and that no tails are accessible. The crocheted eyes should be sewn on with very tight stitches since they are the piece small hands will pull at most.
• For children under three, also check that the skirt strip is attached securely all the way around and that no yarn loops are loose enough to catch fingers.

Stuffing Guide

The head takes firm stuffing, packed in before round 23 while the opening is still wide, and added again if needed at round 25. Firm stuffing is what gives the Powerpuff head its characteristic round shape. Too little and it looks deflated at the top. The body also takes firm stuffing to support the head weight. Arms get only a light fill; they should stay soft and moveable. The legs get stuffed after closing, enough to feel solid but not so much that the shoe section distorts.
 

Assembly

Pin every piece before sewing down. The eyes especially need pinning in several positions before you commit.

1. Sew the head to the top of the body. Use the long tail and work two full circuits for strength.
2. Pin the eyes onto the lower half of the face, large and close together. Check the angle from the front before sewing.
3. Embroider the mouth below the eyes once the eyes are positioned.
4. Sew the hair cap onto the head with the bangs sitting flat across the forehead.
5. Sew the arms to the sides of the body just below the neck join.
6. Check that the skirt strip is secured all the way around the waist.

FAQ

• I've never done a magic ring before. Is it hard? It takes a few tries to feel natural, but once it clicks it's faster than chaining. Watch one short video, practice on scrap yarn, and do five or six before starting the actual legs.
• What is the invisible decrease and why does it matter here? It's a version of the decrease that picks up only the front loops of two stitches. It lies flatter than the standard decrease and doesn't leave a visible bump. On a head this large, the regular decrease shows as a little ridge along the closing rounds, which the invisible version avoids.
• My colour changes in the legs look messy. What do I do? Carry the unused colour loosely along the inside rather than cutting it each time. That keeps the floats tidy. Pull each colour change snug but not tight, and the line between colours will look cleaner.
• The head looks huge compared to the body. Is that right? Yes. Powerpuff Girls have heads that are almost as wide as the body is tall. If yours looks proportional in a normal toy sense, the head is probably too small.
• Can I make Blossom or Bubbles with this pattern? The body, legs, arms and head rounds are the same for all three. Swap green for pink (Blossom) or blue (Bubbles), change the hair colour and style, and adjust the eye colour. The hair will need different shaping for Blossom's bow and Bubbles' pigtails.