Crochet Mouse Keychain Free Pattern Amigurumi

Hook this crochet mouse keychain amigurumi onto your car keys, and the chubby grey mouse makes them easy to find at the bottom of a handbag. Teachers collecting small classroom rewards can stock a few mouse bag charms in soft grey for kids who finish their reading goals.

Grey ball of a body with pink lined ears, the crochet mouse keychain amigurumi looks like it has just been caught doing something. Nose stitched mid twitch. Paws out at every angle. It reads as busy and slightly guilty, which is a lot of attitude for something that hangs off a zip.

Crochet Mouse Keychain Amigurumi

Round ears rimmed in white and filled with pink sit high on the head, nearly as wide as the face below them. The body is one plump ball in grey, with no neck at all, and tiny white paws poke out at the sides and bottom. Two bead eyes sit wide apart, a pink nose is stitched between them, and small blush marks sit low on the cheeks. The build is short. One body, four paws, two ears, plus the ring and chain at the top. Only the ears need the colour change, so most of the work is plain rounds with a bit of sewing at the end.

Materials and Tools

• Cotton yarn in pink and white, or blue and white
• Small amount of fuchsia yarn for the nose
• 2.5 mm crochet hook
• 7 to 8 mm safety eyes
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker
• Keychain ring
• Scissors
• Small amount of blush or makeup for finishing

Abbreviations

• sc: single crochet
• inc: increase (2 sc in one stitch)
• dec: decrease (invisible decrease recommended)

Pieces List

• Head and body (single piece): 1
• Ears: 2
• Arms: 2
• Feet: 2
• Tail: 1

The Pattern

Head and Body

Work in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker. This piece starts from a foundation chain, not a magic ring.

• Round 1: Ch 12. Skip the first chain and work 9 sc. Work 3 sc in the last chain. Continue on the other side of the chain with 9 sc. Work 2 sc in the last stitch (24). Checkpoint: a flat oval, wider than it is tall — this is the base shape that will expand upward into the body.
• Round 2: 1 inc, 9 sc, 3 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc (30)
• Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) once, 10 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) twice, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (36)
• Round 4: 2 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) twice, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc (42). Checkpoint: a clear oval disc, still lying flat — the two short ends should be visibly rounder than the long sides.
• Round 5: Sc in each stitch around (42)
• Round 6: Sc in each stitch around (42)
• Round 7: Sc in each stitch around (42)
• Round 8: Sc in each stitch around (42)
• Round 9: Sc in each stitch around (42). Checkpoint: by this round the oval should have curved up into a deep, rounded form — no longer flat, with the body volume clearly established.
• Round 10: (12 sc, 1 dec) repeat around (39)
• Round 11: Sc in each stitch around (39)

• Round 12: (11 sc, 1 dec) repeat around (36)
• Round 13: Sc in each stitch around (36)
• Round 14: (10 sc, 1 dec) repeat around (33)
• Round 15: Continue decreasing pattern gradually to shape the head.
• Round 16: (9 sc, 1 dec) repeat around (30). Checkpoint: the top of the piece should be narrowing clearly now, pulling in toward the head shape — rounder at the bottom, tighter at the top.
• Round 17: Sc in each stitch around (30)
• Insert safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16, about 5 to 6 stitches apart. Test alignment from the front before snapping the backs on. This must happen before the piece closes further.
• Embroider a small fuchsia nose centred below the eyes.
• Round 18: (3 sc, 1 dec) repeat around (24). Begin stuffing lightly with fiberfill at this point.
• Round 19: Sc in each stitch around (24)
• Round 20: (2 sc, 1 dec) repeat around (18)
• Round 21: (1 sc, 1 dec) repeat around (12)
• Round 22: 6 dec (6). Checkpoint: a small closed puckered hole — the mouse should be fully rounded and lightly firm throughout.
• Fasten off and close the opening.
• Attach the keychain ring firmly at the top of the head.

For toys going to children under three: skip the safety eyes and embroider both eyes with black yarn in the same position between rounds 15 and 16, hiding tails inside before closing.

If written amigurumi patterns feel like a lot right now, the video tutorial below is the easiest way to learn as you stitch!

Ears — Make 2

• Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• Round 2: 6 inc (12). Checkpoint: a small flat circle.
• Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat around (18). Checkpoint: a flat disc about the size of a large button — should lie completely flat with no cupping.
• Round 4: Sc in each stitch around (18)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
• Sew each ear above the eyes, between rounds 2 and 3 from the top of the head, angled slightly outward.

Arms — Make 2

• Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• Round 2: Sc in each stitch around (6)
• Round 3: Sc in each stitch around (6). Checkpoint: a small narrow tube, unstuffed and flexible.
• Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
• Sew each arm to the side of the body, two rounds below the eyes.

Feet — Make 2

• Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• Round 2: 6 inc (12). Checkpoint: a flat circle slightly larger than the arm base.
• Round 3: Sc in each stitch around (12)
• Round 4: Sc in each stitch around (12)
• Stuff lightly.
• Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
• Sew each foot to the bottom front of the body, positioned slightly forward so the mouse sits balanced rather than tipping back.

Tail

• Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• Round 2: Sc in each stitch around (6)
• Continue working sc in each stitch around until the tail reaches approximately 16 rounds in length.
• Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
• Sew the tail to the back of the body between rounds 8 and 9.

Assembly

1. Embroider the nose and insert the safety eyes before assembly — do both while the head and body piece is still the only thing in your hands.
2. Apply blush to the inside of the ears before sewing them on. Much easier to do now than after they are attached.
3. Pin both ears to the top of the head above the eyes, angled slightly outward, before sewing either. Check from the front.
4. Pin both arms to the sides of the body at the same height before sewing. Two rounds below the eyes is the target.
5. Attach the feet to the bottom front of the body, pinning both before committing to either.
6. Sew the tail to the centre back between rounds 8 and 9.
7. Apply blush to the cheeks last, once the face is fully assembled.

Stuffing Guide

Start adding fiberfill at round 18, when the opening is still wide enough to shape with a finger. Add small amounts and press them into the sides — the oval shape means the body is naturally a little elongated, and stuffing should follow that rather than pushing everything into a ball. Light but consistent fill is the target. The head should feel rounded and smooth; the lower body slightly softer. Arms take no stuffing. Feet get the minimum — just enough to hold their disc shape. Overstuffing shows first at the later decrease rounds (20 to 21), where the stitches spread and gaps appear.

FAQ

• What does round 15 mean by "continue decreasing pattern gradually"? It means keep the same logic you have been using — one decrease per section, evenly spaced — without a strict formula. The pattern is intentionally flexible here because the oval shape means stitch counts at this point vary slightly between makers. Keep the curve smooth and trust the count to follow.
• The safety eyes are placed between rounds 15 and 16, which is inside the decrease section — is that right? Yes. The decreases start at round 10 and run gradually, so by rounds 15 to 16 the head is narrowing but still fully open. The eyes fit in and the backing applies without any problem. Just do not skip this step and continue past round 17.
• Can I use a different colour combination? The pattern lists pink and white or blue and white as the main options, but any two cotton colours that contrast enough to read the body shape clearly will work the same way.