Standing heart plushies balance on two stubby legs, so the crochet heart amigurumi stays upright on a nightstand or a crowded bookshelf. Valentine gift baskets gain a soft finishing touch when a blush pink crochet heart plushie tucks in among the chocolates, cards and roses.

Valentine's tables fill up fast, and this crochet heart amigurumi lands right on the theme without any glitter or plastic. Make a red one and a pink one, then set them side by side through February. Class swaps, desk gifts, anniversary mornings. The crochet heart amigurumi comes back out every year.

Crochet Heart Amigurumi

Legs dangle from the bottom point of each heart, worked in the opposite colour to the body. The red one sits on pink legs, the pink one sits on red. Both faces match, two safety eyes set wide with a small curved smile stitched between them. Top lobes stay rounded and firmly stuffed, which stops the lower point from drooping once the toy sits upright. Parts come down to the body in the round, plus two short legs shaped like teardrops. No colour changes are needed inside the body, so most of the work runs in one shade. Placing the legs at an even angle is the only fiddly step.

Materials and Tools

Quantities are approximate and shift with tension.

• Worsted weight yarn in your heart colour, roughly 40 to 50 g
• Contrasting yarn for the feet, a small amount
• 3 mm to 3.5 mm crochet hook, which is deliberately tight for worsted and gives fabric dense enough to hide stuffing
• Poly fil stuffing, around 25 to 35 g
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Safety eyes or embroidery thread, optional
• Pins

Finished height sits somewhere around 9 to 12 cm including the feet. Estimate rather than a measured figure from the pattern.

Abbreviations

• SC: single crochet
• Increase: two single crochet in the same stitch
• Decrease: invisible decrease preferred for smoother shaping
• Stitch counts appear in brackets.

Pieces List

• Cups, 2, worked to 24 stitches each
• Heart body, worked directly onto the two joined cups from round 8 onward
• Feet, 2, worked separately and sewn on

Three crocheted pieces. Two seams at the end, both of them feet.

Notes Before You Start

• Continuous rounds throughout, not joined rounds. Mark the first stitch of every round.
• Keep your tension tight and even. At 3 mm with worsted the fabric should feel firm with no gaps.
• Stuff gradually once the decreases begin.
• Use invisible decreases. On a smooth curved surface with no face to distract the eye, a standard decrease leaves a ridge you will notice.
• Worth understanding before round 10: the decreases in rounds 10, 12 and 13 sit exactly where the two cups meet, at the side seams. Each of those rounds removes only two stitches, which is unusually slow shaping. That slowness is deliberate. It pulls the seam line inward to make the heart's waist without letting the top lobes collapse, and speeding it up is the fastest way to end up with a pear.

Crochet Heart Pattern

Worked in continuous rounds. Shape checkpoints and the common problem for each round sit at the end of the round they belong to.

Cup 1

• Round 1: magic ring, 6 SC [6]
• Round 2: increase in each stitch around [12]
• Round 3: 1 SC, 1 increase, repeat 6 times [18]
• Round 4: 18 SC [18] Checkpoint: a flat disc lying down without cupping or ruffling. If the edge waves, your increases are too loose and it will not settle later.
• Round 5: 1 SC, 1 increase, 1 SC, repeat 6 times [24]
• Round 6: 24 SC [24]
• Round 7: 24 SC [24] Checkpoint: a rounded dome with an open bottom, roughly the depth of a bottle cap. It should hold its shape when set down rather than flopping flat.
• Fasten off leaving a short tail.

Cup 2

• Round 1: magic ring, 6 SC [6]
• Round 2: increase in each stitch around [12]
• Round 3: 1 SC, 1 increase, repeat 6 times [18]
• Round 4: 18 SC [18]
• Round 5: 1 SC, 1 increase, 1 SC, repeat 6 times [24]
• Round 6: 24 SC [24]
• Round 7: 24 SC [24] Checkpoint: hold both cups side by side. They must match in width and depth. This is the last moment to redo one, because after round 8 they are locked together.
• Do not fasten off.

First amigurumi project? Take it slow, watch the video tutorial below, and use the written pattern below as your cheat sheet!

Joining the Cups

• Slip stitch to the first cup to connect.
• Round 8: 48 SC around both cups to join [48] Checkpoint: one continuous round with both domes below it. Small gaps tend to open at the two points where the cups touch. Close them now with the short tail from cup 1, not later when the heart is stuffed and the gaps have stretched.
• Round 9: 48 SC [48] Checkpoint: the piece should read as a heart from the front already. If it reads as a figure eight, the cups have rotated and need repositioning, though at this stage that means pulling back round 8.

Shaping the Heart

• Round 10: 11 SC, 1 decrease, 22 SC, 1 decrease, 11 SC [46] Checkpoint: the two decreases land at the side seams where the cups meet. Only two stitches come out of this round, so the change is subtle. Begin stuffing here, pushing fiberfill up into both cups first with the blunt end of your hook. This is the last round where reaching them is easy.
• Round 11: 46 SC [46]
• Round 12: 10 SC, 1 decrease, 22 SC, 1 decrease, 10 SC [44]
• Round 13: 9 SC, 1 decrease, 22 SC, 1 decrease, 9 SC [42] Checkpoint: a visible waist forming below the lobes while the top stays full. If the lobes have gone soft or dented, stop and add more stuffing before you carry on, since the opening only gets narrower.
• Round 14: 5 SC, 1 decrease, repeat around [36]
• Round 15: 2 SC, 1 decrease, 2 SC, repeat around [30] Checkpoint: the shaping speeds up sharply from round 14. The piece should now be tapering clearly toward the base. Keep adding small amounts of stuffing on every round rather than waiting.
• Round 16: 3 SC, 1 decrease, repeat around [24]
• Round 17: 2 SC, 1 decrease, repeat 6 times [18]
• Round 18: 1 SC, 1 decrease, repeat around [12] Checkpoint: the heart closes at 12 stitches, which is a wider base than a true point. That is intentional here, since the feet need a flat area to sit against. Stuff firmly before closing.
• Fasten off and sew the opening closed.

Feet, Make 2

• Base: chain 3.
• In the second chain from the hook, work 1 SC.
• Work 3 SC in the next chain.
• Turn and work along the other side of the chain.
• Work 2 SC in the middle stitch [6] Checkpoint: a tiny oval of 6 stitches. This round is written tersely and its count is never stated.
• Round 2: increase in each stitch around [12]
• Round 3: 4 SC, 2 decreases, 4 SC [10] Checkpoint: the decreases sit together at one end, which is what makes the foot narrow at the back and stay wide at the front. Keep track of which end is which.
• Round 4: 3 SC, 2 decreases, 3 SC [8]
• Round 5: 3 SC, 1 decrease, 3 SC [7]
• Round 6: 7 SC [7]
• Round 7: 7 SC [7]
• Round 8: 7 SC [7] Checkpoint: a small stuffed oval with a flat sole and a slightly narrowed back. Both feet must match, so make the second one straight after the first.
• Stuff the feet firmly.
• Fasten off leaving a long tail.

Three things still need saying.

• Most rounds carry no stated stitch count. Rounds 10 and 12 through 18 of the body, and every round of the feet, are written without one. Only round 11 gives a number. The counts shown in brackets above are what each round's own instructions produce, worked out from the stitches consumed, not numbers taken from the original. The chain runs 48, 46, 46, 44, 42, 36, 30, 24, 18, 12.
• The eye timing is stated too loosely. The facial features section says to place safety eyes before the heart is completely closed, and it sits at the end of the post after the feet are already sewn on. Technically true, practically useless. The real deadline is before you start stuffing at round 10. Once fiberfill is packed into the cups you cannot get a hand in to seat a washer on either lobe, and the heart is nowhere near closed at that point. Put them in after round 9.
• The foot base round is hard to follow and its count is never given. Chain 3, then 1 SC in the second chain from the hook, then 3 SC in the last chain to turn the corner, then 2 SC worked along the opposite side of the chain. That comes to 6 stitches, which is what round 2 needs in order to double to 12. If you end up with more or fewer, work back to 6 before continuing.

Eye Timing and Face

The heart works perfectly well plain. If you want a face, here is the timing.

• Safety eyes go in after round 9 and before you start stuffing at round 10. That is the window, and it is narrower than the pattern suggests.
• Position them on the cups, one on each lobe, roughly level with each other and sitting slightly toward the centre.
• Pin the positions and look at the heart straight on before committing. Washers do not come off once seated.
• Embroidered eyes can go on at any stage, including after the heart is finished and the feet are attached. Sleepy closed eyes suit this shape and are two curved lines each.
• Add a small stitched smile below and centred between the eyes if you want one.
• For a toy going to a child under three, use embroidery only. On a piece this small with two sewn on feet, the eyes would be the only hard component and they are not worth including.

Assembly

• Close and stuff the heart first, following round 18.
• Sew the closing seam neatly. It sits on the underside where the feet go, so it will be partly hidden, but not entirely.
• Pin both feet to the base before sewing either one. Position them slightly apart rather than touching, which is what gives the heart balance.
• Stand the heart up on the pinned feet and check it does not rock. Adjust before you sew.
• Sew each foot around its full contact area, not just at the back. A foot anchored at one point rotates and the heart starts leaning.
• Adjust the stuffing by hand once everything is attached. Squeeze the lobes back into shape and let it settle.
• Weave all tails into the inside of the pieces.

Stuffing Guide

• Cups: firm and rounded. These carry the whole silhouette, and a soft lobe makes the heart read as a lump.
• Push stuffing upward into the cups with the blunt end of your hook. A finger will not reach once the shaping starts.
• Body: firm through the middle so the waist holds its curve.
• Base: go easy. Overstuffing the bottom rounds pushes the base outward and flattens the taper you spent nine rounds building.
• Feet: firm. They are only 7 stitches around and they need to hold their shape under the weight of the heart.
• Start at round 10, not at the end. The pattern says to begin once the decreases start and that is correct.
• Where overstuffing shows first: rounds 8 and 9 at the widest point, where the fabric stretches and white fiberfill shows through. Red yarn shows it worse than almost any other colour.

FAQ

• My two cups came out slightly different, does it matter? Yes, and there is no fixing it after round 8. A cup that is one round shallower makes one lobe sit lower, which reads as lopsided from every angle. Seven rounds is quick to redo.
• There is a hole where the two cups meet. Normal. Two round pieces only touch at one point on each side, so a small gap at each junction is expected. Close them with the short tail from cup 1 during round 8, before any stuffing goes in.
• Why does the heart barely change shape at rounds 10 to 13? Because those rounds only remove two stitches each. It is meant to be slow. The gradual pull is what keeps the lobes full while the waist comes in, and rounds 14 onward do the fast work.